The tires came with a rim strip already installed. I didn't need the fancy rubber ring that comes with the Stan's kit for converting a rim that isn't tubeless ready. I got the syringe, valve stems, a kind of nut driver used for pulling the valve out of the stems and some goo. I also got a presta-schrader converter so I could use our air compressor. After noting that a strip of rim tape is there to cover the spoke holes, basically, you put a valve stem where the valve of a tube would go and mount the tire. A blast of air from the compressor should pop the tire beads onto the rim and hold a bit of air for a little while. Pull the guts out of the valve stem and let it all deflate. Use the syringe to put in 4oz. of goo and then fill it up with air from the compressor. Since there's no valve to hold the air in, cover the hole with your finger while you load up the other hand with the valve and put it in place, sealing the air in. Then take the wheel and rotate it so the goo is (you can only guess) evenly distributed around the tire. Then (this is step I didn't do and why I have to do this all over again) rotate the wheel in the other direction. Not clockwise vs counter-clockwise, but around like the axle lets you vs 90 degrees to that. You want to get the goo to cover not just the backside of the tread that touches the road, but the seal between the rim and the tire, along the bead. The goo seals the tire to the rim. More goo in there stays liquid ready to seal any puncture that comes through the tread.
a log of rides and opinions as I transform from sedentary office worker to a rider fit enough for an epic ride, Colorado's Triple Bypass: 3 mountain passes, 120 miles, 10,000 feet of elevation gain, in one day.
Thursday, March 17, 2016
Tubeless...
The new mountain bike came with wheels that can support tubeless tires. There's a lot written about setting them up, and it seems more complicated than it is. Here's my old wimpy 2.0 inch tire next to the new 2.4s:
The tires came with a rim strip already installed. I didn't need the fancy rubber ring that comes with the Stan's kit for converting a rim that isn't tubeless ready. I got the syringe, valve stems, a kind of nut driver used for pulling the valve out of the stems and some goo. I also got a presta-schrader converter so I could use our air compressor. After noting that a strip of rim tape is there to cover the spoke holes, basically, you put a valve stem where the valve of a tube would go and mount the tire. A blast of air from the compressor should pop the tire beads onto the rim and hold a bit of air for a little while. Pull the guts out of the valve stem and let it all deflate. Use the syringe to put in 4oz. of goo and then fill it up with air from the compressor. Since there's no valve to hold the air in, cover the hole with your finger while you load up the other hand with the valve and put it in place, sealing the air in. Then take the wheel and rotate it so the goo is (you can only guess) evenly distributed around the tire. Then (this is step I didn't do and why I have to do this all over again) rotate the wheel in the other direction. Not clockwise vs counter-clockwise, but around like the axle lets you vs 90 degrees to that. You want to get the goo to cover not just the backside of the tread that touches the road, but the seal between the rim and the tire, along the bead. The goo seals the tire to the rim. More goo in there stays liquid ready to seal any puncture that comes through the tread.
The tires came with a rim strip already installed. I didn't need the fancy rubber ring that comes with the Stan's kit for converting a rim that isn't tubeless ready. I got the syringe, valve stems, a kind of nut driver used for pulling the valve out of the stems and some goo. I also got a presta-schrader converter so I could use our air compressor. After noting that a strip of rim tape is there to cover the spoke holes, basically, you put a valve stem where the valve of a tube would go and mount the tire. A blast of air from the compressor should pop the tire beads onto the rim and hold a bit of air for a little while. Pull the guts out of the valve stem and let it all deflate. Use the syringe to put in 4oz. of goo and then fill it up with air from the compressor. Since there's no valve to hold the air in, cover the hole with your finger while you load up the other hand with the valve and put it in place, sealing the air in. Then take the wheel and rotate it so the goo is (you can only guess) evenly distributed around the tire. Then (this is step I didn't do and why I have to do this all over again) rotate the wheel in the other direction. Not clockwise vs counter-clockwise, but around like the axle lets you vs 90 degrees to that. You want to get the goo to cover not just the backside of the tread that touches the road, but the seal between the rim and the tire, along the bead. The goo seals the tire to the rim. More goo in there stays liquid ready to seal any puncture that comes through the tread.
Sunday, February 28, 2016
Oil Well Flats near Canon City
Dry mountain bike riding in late February! Temperatures as high as 70 (I was down to just a cycling shirt, no undershirt, no over shirt, no sweater, LOTS of water).
2016-Feb-28 with Nad, Carlos, Judy and John
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